I went skiing again on two occasions after that, but the third time I was 36 and pregnant with our first child (booked before I knew I was pregnant!). I said I wouldn’t ski much though I did a lot in the end but I felt that trip didn’t count for me as I was so cautious and fearful (though our ten year old daughter likes to think that’s where she first got her ski legs!). At that point I don’t think I would have minded if we’d never skied again.
Fast forward to to the present and a word on the husband. He is very good at two sports and one of them is skiing (the other is scuba diving. It’s a long running joke that he is great at sports that you can’t do in this country and can only really do on holiday). He started skiing aged 7 and went on countless school ski trips where they skied for nine hours a day and where he became so good he skied with the teachers. He has the “no fear” ability to ski that (I think) you only get when you learn to ski as a child. So it was natural that at some point when our kids were just old enough that he would want them to learn to ski, which led to a few years of him mentioning it and me putting it off (“I like hot holidays!” “We need to go to Australia!”) until one day three years ago I caved and found myself (reluctantly) in Morzine on on family ski holiday. The girls were 6 and 8.
Anyone who skis or snowboards knows the incredible amount of faffing about and gear required to even get on a pair of skis so add young children into the mix and on some levels (especially in the beginning) it is its own kind of hell. Also see “small children on chairlifts”. Plus there is no dancing on tables in ski boots and apres ski is really just a family dinner (though raclettes are still incredible!). But, after our second family ski holiday (this time to Avoriaz where we have also just been again), I actually uttered these words (which have come back to haunt me and I have been reminded of many times since), “This is the best family holiday we’ve ever had!”.
There is a particular magic for me about our family skiing trips. It is consuming in a way that no other trip we’ve been on is. There is no tv, there is a lot of togetherness, bickering, fun, disasters, meltdowns, laughter and a general sharing of adventurous spirit and achievement that is hard to find elsewhere (though we have tried with limited success on hiking holidays). You do get to know each other well, warts and all. The girls went to ski school the first year in the afternoons and we skied together in the mornings (the first two of which were a total disaster). In the last two years, the youngest has vetoed ski school, so we have skied together for half the day while the girls and I have a lesson for the other half (this is the husband’s big chance to ski down the mountain like an unencumbered demon and he returns looking like a wild animal). On the final day, we do a Big Ski Day out (the first two years we covered 10kms, this year 23!). It generally works, sometimes not (and it is particularly hard when there are different levels of enthusiasm for the ski day ahead), and it is not always smooth sailing (far from) but show me a holiday with kids that is?
After 3 weeks of skiing, the girls (now 8 and 10) have become good skiers. The oldest did a black run this year (after begging every day) and they both competently handle red runs, even if the youngest still prefers to snow plough her way down the slopes. They have no fear. In years to come they will be the effortless, fearless skiers their father is (he says they will overtake him in their ability and he is probably right).
As for me, I’ve realised that I can love skiing while still feeling the fear. In my own way, I’ve also become a good skier. “You’re so graceful” the husband says (actually I am just cautious. I favour long curve arcs of skiing over heading straight down. I am always the last of the four of us to arrive at any point). I can competently handle red runs and have the strength and fitness now (thank you Crossfit) to endure long distances and steep descents. I have moments of pure bliss. But it’s far from effortless and it’s definitely not fearless. “How can I be a better skier?” I asked the husband at the end of our trip. “ You just need to trust your skis” he said.
Maybe next year, I will learn how to do that. Until then, I’ll feel the fear and ski anyway.
Practical info (things the have helped us)
Gear
The best investment I have made is a really good pair of gloves as I get ridiculously cold hands especially fingertips. I wear Hestra three finger waterproof gloves (which while an investment have really changed my ability to enjoy skiing.) On very cold days (as we go in February as the husband wants good snow!) I also wear glove liners and hand warmers (as well as foot warmers attached to my ski socks). www.hestragloves.com (also available on other websites).The best base layers I have found are from Sweaty Betty. This year I had a particularly warm one that included merino wool and was amazing. I am sure they do them every year. Plus they are great prints and look fabulous!www.sweatybetty.com
The girls have always worn ski gear from Mountain Warehouse in their sale. They only needed new stuff this year as they had grown out of their clothes from two years ago. They are always warm and last very well and if you buy in sale are a bargain. Their snow boots were from there as well and were hugely discounted. Other layers etc from Decathlon. www.mountainwarehouse.com www.decathlon.com
Obviously I swear by my moon boots for non-ski wear! I bought mine three years ago and they are still perfect.www.moonboot.com.
Accommodation
The ability to ski in and ski out of where you are staying is worth its weight in gold. We didn’t have this the first year we went and carrying all the girls equipment a fair distance when they were very young was tough. In Avoriaz we could ski to and from our accommodation and while there was a small amount of carrying stuff it was minimal in comparison and made the whole experience so much better, especially at the end of the day when very tired. I would choose this (and ease of getting to ski room and out) over space/luxury etc/anything really. In Avoriaz we have stayed both times in a tiny apartment (no chalet!) in Saskia Falaise www.pierrevacances.comwhich also has the advantage of the ski hire shop being only a few metres away.
Ski school
In Avoriaz we have had lessons with Evolution 2 (www.avoriaz.evolution2.com). Highly recommend with the small proviso that we didn’t have a great instructor this year as we booked it very last minute. Apparently the best time to book this is in September and you can request a specific instructor if you happen to know any!
In Morzine the girls went to ski school with Easy 2 Ride Ski and Snowboard Academy (www.morzineski.fr) and they were excellent.
Fantastic post Dana, a great read and really interesting. As a family we’ve been skiing only twice and I agree with so much of what you’ve said but now I’m delighted that the kids are becoming enthusiastic and competent skiers who just love wizzing down the slopes and who will hopefully enjoy for years to come. It really is a holiday like no other for all the reasons you’ve highlighted. Love your writing style too 😍👍xx
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